Monday, January 5, 2009

Random Travel Update 35

Last location: Banff, Canada
Arrival Date: December 26, 2008
Departure Date: January 4, 2009

Current location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: January 4, 2009
Departure Date: January 19, 2009

Next Location: Farmington, UT
Arrival Date: January 19, 2009
Departure Date: TBD

Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer

My non-vegan cousin may be the most brilliant vegan cook ever. This Christmas, her and my aunt teamed up to create one of the most righteous family feasts yet. We had terra chips, hummus, jalapeno cranberry sauce, strawberry mandarin spinach salad, cranberry bread, candied carrots, rosemary roasted potatoes, green bean supreme, a vegan roast by Field Roast Grain Meat (available at whole foods) and chocolate cake. Of particular note was the cranberry sauce, which is absolutely brilliant with jalapeño (who would have thought?); the vegan cranberry bread, which was sticky, tart and sweet to perfection; the green bean supreme which I never liked as a kid but love now that it’s been veganized; and the eggless chocolate cake which was decadently moist on the inside and flawlessly crisp around the edges. I have attached the recipes for you foodies out there. They are also available here with pictures.

When it became apparent that I would be in North America for the winter, my parents invited me to join them on their annual ski trip departing the day after Christmas. This year we went to Canada for the first time as a family. We stayed in Canmore, a small town between Calgary and Banff put on the map when it hosted the Nordic events for the 1988 Winter Olympic Games. 1988 is significant because it is the first year of Olympic Games that I ever watched. (Points to anyone who knows what city hosted the 1988 Summer Games.)

We skied three resorts in Banff National Park: Norquay, Sunshine and Lake Louise. Norquay is small and untouristed, a local spot with great attitude but not-so-great-snow. Sunshine and Lake Louise are world class resorts comparable to those in Colorado and Utah with wonderfully rugged (read rocky) terrain and a healthy respect for avalanche danger. On our fourth day, we took a break from downhill to try our skills at cross country skiing at Canmore’s Olympic Nordic Track. On our final day, we packed up and drove two hours north along the Icefields Parkway to stare in awe at the massive glacier formations and ice falls impressively suspended over towering rock formations.

If you live or travel in Alberta, I recommend checking out The Coup in Calgary, a super trendy joint serving up spectacular meals and a live DJ on the weekends. This place is no secret and is obscenely popular. Expect a worthwhile wait. In Canmore, I highly recommend The Chef’s Studio Japan for Sushi. The menu is great for vegans (they even leave the fish out of their miso), the staff is uber friendly and the bathrooms include chalk so that you can guiltlessly tag the walls. If you are anywhere in Canada, I recommend checking out the new Vegetarian Chicken Sandwich at KFC. Yes, Kentucky Fried Chicken sells vegan chicken that is absolutely delicious. The people at the counter may not know that it is vegan so make sure to ask for no mayo. Unfortunately, it is only available in Canada. So, if you live in Canada and don’t mind eating fried food every so often support it so that they’ll start offering it in the US. Related trivia: the first KFC ever is in South Salt Lake, Utah.

There is more to write but I’ll save it for update 36. Thanks to all of you who wrote back with your New Year’s updates!

Love,

Melissa

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Random Travel Update 34

Last Location: Costa Rica
Arrival Date: November 7, 2008
Departure Date: December 9, 2008

Current location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: December 9, 2008
Departure Date: December 26, 2008

Next location: Banff, Canada
Arrival Date: December 26, 2008
Departure Date: January 4, 2009

Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer

Costa Rica is an amazing country. I should have written more from the beach, but I think the photos speak for themselves. If Samara is any indication, then there is no understatement about the quality of beaches in Costa Rica. While in Samara, I explored tide pools and isolated beaches, walked along (and once by accident through) horse fields and river deltas, photographed monkeys and iguanas, was followed and befriended by several local dogs, took Spanish, dance, yoga, aerobics and jewelry making classes on the beach, tried the local firewater (www.guaroliquor.com), went on a canopy tour (http://samarabeach.com/wingnuts/index.html) of the rarest type of forest in the world-dry tropical, and experienced several dozen turtles all laying their eggs at night on a nearby unoccupied stretch of sand.

After returning to Heredia via a five hour standing-room-only bus trip from Samara, I packed my last week in Costa Rica with a historical music concert by the 10-time Grammy winner Juan Luis Guerra and his band 4 40 (cuatro cuarenta) from The Dominican Republic; a trip to the discotheque for some salsa con mis amigos; a tour of the local Café Britt Coffee Plantation in Barva and a tour of the Rainforest in Nacional Parque Braulio Carillo, in addition to my 20hr/week Spanish lessons.

All of the above activities were outstandingly wonderful and mind tingling. The Juan Luis Guerra (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juan_Luis_Guerra) concert was of pure luck. The show was scheduled for Sunday but was rescheduled due to rain. My teacher told us about it in class on Monday and when I asked the school receptionist about getting tickets, a friendly English student offered to give me and two of my amigas a ride. Getting tickets was another effort since their advertised price was 22,000 colones each (US$40). Way out of budget. After more effort, we discovered that 2 for 1 tickets were being sold for only 18,000 colones at the bank. After going to the bank, we discovered that the deal only applied to those holding a specific credit card which none of us had.

After pondering a bit more and almost giving up, our salsa instructor offered to call his friend who had the requisite card and ask him to pick up some discounted tickets at the bank for us. Since there were three of us, we were going to have to buy an extra ticket, but upon arriving at the bank we found a person selling her ticket for 8,000 colones. So, in all, we ended up with three tickets for a total of 26,000 colones ($16 each) just in time to drop off our books at home, eat a snack and head out to the show which, turned out to be nothing short of magnificent despite the six-inch deep mud trenches we had to trek through on the way there that nearly destroyed all of our shoes.

I spent the rest of the week studying and making the best of my last week at the school. On Friday, I met up with two friends from dance class and their two friends for a night out at the discotheques. Of course, I was terrified about the cigarette situation, but I figured that it was my last weekend and if I got sick, it wouldn't be the worst thing in the world. I really wanted to experience Salsa in its correct content.

After driving to our preferred club, we found that it was reserved out for a private party so we proceeded to drive to three more discotheques, all booked out by private parties. I didn't mind being driven around since two of the friends we were with were locals and we were able to exchange useful language tips with each other. We ended up at a sort of discotheque mall with over a dozen bars and clubs all in one main area. We found a dance club with a cheap cover that turned out to be perfect. They played salsa and meringue and cumbia and socca and hip hop and even I think a moment of techno. The best part is that it was big and airy with no active smokers in sight. So I was able to stay out late without getting sick.

The next morning I woke up naturally for breakfast at 7am, studied some, and then headed out for my walk to the nearby town of Barva for a tour of the Café Britt coffee factory. It was a sunny blue day and my walk was delightful. The tour too was delightful, if a little bit cheesy, and the tour guides let me demonstrate the proper coffee sampling technique for the audience, which was fun and won me a prize. I can demonstrate later if anyone is interested. Before heading home, I walked to the city of Barva town center and strolled around the central park where they just happened to be having a festival.

On Sunday, I woke up early again to catch a bus from Heredia to the capital city of San Jose in order to catch another bus from San Jose to Guapiles via the Parque Braulio Carillo about an hour north. There I took a delightful tour of the rainforest by Aerial Tram, which you can find info about at http://www.rainforestrams.com/craintro.html. It was pouring when I arrived, but I figured that it was likely going to be a lucky day for me since I had just seen the biggest rainbow of my life a few moments earlier on the bus ride up. So, despite being assured by the park staff that it had been raining all week and that it would continue to rain all day, I decided to wait in the giftshop just in case it stopped raining, which it did 15 minutes later.

There were no other tourists around so I had a tram and guide to myself, which meant that I could ask all the questions I wanted, practice my Spanish and have the binoculars all to myself when wildlife emerged. The tram tour was perfect because it traversed all layers of the forest from almost ground level to above the canopy. Did anyone else have the Reading Rainbow when they were kids? Being on the tram felt like being in a scene out of The Reading Rainbow, like I was suddenly transported by rainbow into this densely interesting and educational environment in a far away place.

After the hour and fifteen minute tram ride, my guide took me on a hike through the park pointing out significant or interesting plants along the way. We came across a tiny red and blue poison dart frog and a larger non-poison cute frog taking a nap on the orchid display, a coati, a very cute red oversized rodent-like animal, a huge ant, and a bunch of toucans, including rainbow-billed ones, which are especially pretty looking. Photos are at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer/CostaRica2. Though, the nature of being in the wild and not at a zoo was that the animals ran away pretty quickly in general and so it was not possible for me to get photos of most of them. I was lucky to get an up close shot of the toucans. There are a few more quality-looking photos of wildlife in Costa Rica posted at http://www.wildnatureimages.com/CostaRicaWildlifePhotos.htm.

After spending a few more minutes writing postcards and sampling the Café Britt chocolates at the gift shop, I returned to Heredia, checked out a dance performance by the local UNA university and ate dinner at my favorite Lebanese joint in Costa Rica, aptly named Comida Lebanesa. At 8pm, I hopped on a bus to Alajuela to catch up with a group to go white water rafting the next morning. Unfortunately, rafting was cancelled due to an overabundance of water on the river so I spent Monday hiking the coffee farm outside the hostel, socializing with the other hotel residents, checking out Alajuela proper and documenting the ant behavior on my bedsheets.

Tuesday saw my return home on a long series of short flights from Alajuela to Houston to Los Angeles to Tucson. Though sad to have left Costa Rica, I am thrilled to be back at home with my mom, dad, hot shower and bug-free bedroom.

Thanks to everyone for your travel tips and Costa Rica advice. It looks like I will have to return to Costa Rica someday to see everything that I missed out on this time.

Now to all my Canada peeps: let me know what's up in Alberta for New Years!

Love,

Melissa

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Random Travel Update 33

Last Location: Heredia, Costa Rica
Arrival Date: November 7, 2008
Departure Date: November 14, 2008

Last location: Monteverde y Volcan Arenal, Costa Rica
Arrival Date: November 14, 2008
Departure Date: November 16, 2008

Current location: Samara Beach, Costa Rica
Arrival Date: November 7, 2008
Departure Date: December 9, 2008

Next location: Undecided

Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer

Hola! Estoy en Costa Rica estudiar espanol. Yo quiero escribir esta cartra en espanol, pero no es possible por mi ahora. Tal vez en tres mas semanas…

I love it here. Before it even touched the ground, I understood why my plane was packed with tourists eager to spend their precious little vacation time on this rich coast. As my aircraft descended, the clouds parted to expose the luscious green landscape below: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer/CostaRica2008#5268283094517035762

Costa Rica is thoroughly beautiful, the tico (Costa Rican) culture is relaxed, the environment is generally well protected, and the infrastructure is simple. I live with host families of which I have two, one in Heredia and one in Samara. The accommodation, like the infrastructure, is simple but charming. My mama ticas are wonderfully caring and make me two delicious vegan meals a day.

My tico families don't speak English and I get plenty of practice between them, the staff at my school and my fellow students. My Spanish is improving rapidly, though I think that perhaps I am better at forgetting English than I am at learning Spanish.

I will leave the rest of the details to the few photos I have already taken: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer/CostaRica2008#. There is much here to do and I am keeping busy between my studies and all of the activities my school has available for us to participate (in Spanish, of course). I will add comments someday when I am back in English-speaking mode. In the meantime, I will do my best to reply to emails during my breaks. Extra points if you help me practice by writing in Espanol- though please try to keep language simple.

Love,

Melissa

Friday, November 7, 2008

Random Travel Update 32

Last Location: Los Angeles, California
Arrival Date: October 27, 2008
Departure Date: November 6, 2008

Current location: Heredia, Costa Rica
Arrival Date: November 7, 2008
Departure Date: December 9, 2008

Next location: Undetermined

Of all the places I have been or could have been in the world, there is nowhere that I would have rather been then right where I was during the eight days leading up to the most historical election of my lifetime. On Tuesday, November 4th, Californians passed a ballot initiative to end the intensive confinement of calves, pigs, and egg-laying hens in crates and cages so small the animals can't even turn around or extend their limbs. When implemented, the new law will affect 20 million animals, making their lives a little bit better in a significant way.

The landslide victory, 63 yes to 37 no, shows that treating the animals we raise for food with some standard of common decency is a mainstream value accepted by people from every demographic and political ideology. To those of you who contributed financial resources to this campaign or otherwise helped out, thank you and congratulations. For those of you still in the dark about Proposition 2 or the plight of animals on modern day factory farms, visit www.yesonprop2.com or the Humane Society's homepage www.hsus.org for more information about this landmark victory for farm animals.

My gratitude goes out to Josh Balk who suggested that I come out to California; to Paul, Brian, Eric, Sandy and Ryan who were amazing company during the last few days of the campaign; and to Jane and Mark Garrison (as well as Tuffy, Little, Daisy and Tiny) who put us all up with amazing hospitality in their gorgeous vegan utopia on Redondo Beach.

Another congratulations goes out to those of you who supported Obama for president. I have always been proud to be an American, but never in my lifetime have I been so proud of Americans as I am right now.

Pictures are up at http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer.
Click on the Prop 2 Campaign 2008 photo album.

I will send an update from Costa Rica soon.

Love,

Melissa

Saturday, October 25, 2008

Random Travel Update 31

Last Location: DC metro area & Coopers Rock, West Virginia
Arrival Date: October 3, 2008
Departure Date: October 13, 2008

Current location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: October 13, 2008
Departure Date: October 27, 2008

Next location: Los Angeles, California

So this was going to be my "Why I love America" update, but there were too many reasons and too much pressure to phrase them eloquently so you will just have to trust that I love America and I will cover the subject again in more depth at a later time.

My visit to the DC-metro-area was refreshing. The leaves were displaying gorgeous color and the temperature was just perfect; still summery with the occasional breeze. I was able to see several good friends, visit my favorite places for good vegan cuisine, run a few long-over-due errands, attend the annual Poplar Spring Animal Sanctuary Fundraiser, listen to a live Jazz concert on the mall, finally go to the top of the Washington Monument, pick apples at an Orchard and try my hand at bouldering in West Virginia with Jon and his rock climbing posse.

Being home in Arizona has also been nice. I have been keeping myself busy organizing the house, spending time with the parents and preparing for my next adventures. On Monday, I will head to Los Angeles for ten days to help out with the Proposition 2 California ballot initiative campaign to end the practice of cramming farm animals into cages so small the animals can't even turn around, lie down or extend their limbs. For those of you in California, and/or who believe that animals should be treated with compassion and dignity, make sure to visit: www.yesonprop2.com for info on how you can contribute to this historic cause. I shouldn't have to remind any of you to VOTE ON NOVEMBER 4th, but if you are still having trouble deciding, feel free to contact me and I will tell you why I am voting yes for Barack Obama and no for Prop 105 (Arizona only). For more easy-to-read endorsements for those residing in Arizona, visit: http://www.tucsonweekly.com/gbase/Currents/Content?oid=116378.

From LA I will head straight to Costa Rica where I will study Spanish for a month. If you have ever been to Costa Rica, now would be a good time to write me ;)

Love,

Melissa

Thursday, October 2, 2008

Random Travel Update 30

Last Location: Seoul, ROK
Arrival Date: July 16, 2008
Departure Date: September 28, 2008

Last location: San Francisco, CA
Arrival Date: September 28, 2008
Departure Date: September 28, 2008

Current location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: September 28, 2008
Departure Date: October 3, 2008

Next location: Washington, DC

New photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer
Jon's Blog: http://elfanoos.blogspot.com

So this is my story of the last few weeks. It is a sad story and also a happy story.

Jon and I did glorious things while he was in Seoul. After returning from our tranquil temple stay, we watched two movies at the DVD bang (room). Thelma and Louise and The King and I. Both were perfect for the mood I was in. I had forgotten that The King and I is about an English teacher! Really, it was perfect. DVD bangs are fabulous inventions. They consist of a small room with a big comfy couch and a big screen TV. You can watch any released movie you like there, with or without subtitles. Also, you can bring in whatever snacks you like and go wild. It is really a lot of fun.

One day, I made Jon walk along the Han River with me from my apartment in Chungdamdong, past the Olympic Stadium, through Hangang Park, across the Jamsil Bridge, through Riverside Park where we discovered an outdoor free rock climbing wall, then past another park, across the Yongbigyo Bridge at which point the sun set and the bugs started eating us so we jogged another 2 km before grabbing a cab near Oksu Station. Along the way, we stopped to take pictures of flowers, butterflies and kites, drink 1000W ($1) iced coffees with 900W ($0.90) soymilk, and paddle along in a paddleboat shaped like a swan. I think we totaled about 15 km. My goal was 20 if it hadn't been for the bugs.

After Jon left, things outside of work were really good. I made more time to see my friends, went out with my co-workers and found a gym five minutes away that let me try for a week free. I took a pilates class and a body sculpt class in Korean! It was so cute how the Koreans in the class would help me along the way to make sure I was doing the moves correctly. They were so sweet.

At work, however, things got complicated. Early Saturday morning I made one of the saddest decisions of my life, to leave Korea after my school failed to pay me for a month of work. I can't fully detail how sad it was. The weather had just gotten really good, I had just found my gym and also just found Cheewoo, a friend from Java Green in DC who recently returned to Korea and turns out to be one of the most wonderful people I know. I had plans to go bungee jumping in Bundang, to a film festival in Busan and was hoping to start hiking regularly in the Fall weather.

If you were one of the people who was there to see me off Saturday night (Cheewoo, Tre), to help me pack all night (Jordy) or to see me off that morning (Meghan) then you know the story. If not, I can explain the comedy of errors later. I don't feel like focusing on it now, but I am sure the whole episode will seem funny later.

I have returned safely to my hometown of Tucson, Arizona and I can't help but wonder whether, as much as I miss my friends in Seoul, maybe I was meant to return here all along. I have barely been here four days and I already have so many important things to do, like learn Spanish and help my parents lay wood flooring upstairs. Also, I will be coming to DC next week. So watch out for me. Maybe send a message if you want to meet up at Asylum, Java Green, Sticky Fingers or somewhere else awesome. I'll be living it up after ten and a half weeks in the vegan train wreck that is Korea.

In the meantime, check out new pictures and the last additions to my Korean Food Scrapbook at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer. Also, check out Jon's new blog for his take on things: http://elfanoos.blogspot.com.

I look forward to seeing many of you American types soon!

Love,

Melissa

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Random Travel Update 29

Last Location: Seoul, ROK
Arrival Date: July 16, 2008
Departure Date: September 28, 2008 (2pm)

Last location: San Francisco, CA
Arrival Date: September 28, 2008 (8am)
Departure Date: September 28, 2008 (9pm)

Current location: Tucson, AZ

Today was the most magnificent day. I can't describe all the ups and downs of the last few tumultuous weeks but today I can say that I came a bit closer to understanding the purpose of it all.

Today I saw the sun rise twice. Once blurred through my foggy window in Seoul and another time crisply through the window of my airplane just as the west coast of he United States came into view.

Today someone told me, "welcome home" and I felt a deep sense of gratitude for being an American.

Today someone asked me "What makes you feel free?" And a million things that were that moment came into my head.

Today I returned to the same place I was a year ago last week when I took my first flight to Korea. I saw good friends, ate good food and felt happy.

Today I came across at least a hundred things that are worth more than the money I left behind. And I felt utterly content.

Today, I discovered the clarity that I am perpetually in search of. Today was nothing like what I would have thought it would have been just a few days ago, but it was better than anything I could have planned.

Today I would write more, but it has been a 40 hour long day and I am ready for bed. Thank you to all the people in life who make this living such a wonderful experience: Mom, Dad, Jon, Jordy, Cheewoo, Meghan, Ben, Haiete, Francky. You bring sparks of light to my heart. Thank you for being there.

Love,

Melissa