Thursday, March 12, 2009

Random Travel Update 38

Last locations: Montevideo, UR; Punta del Este, UR; Colonia del Sacramento, UR; Buenos Aires, AR; Iguazu Falls, AR; Mendoza, AR; Penitentes, AR; Parque Aconcagua, AR
Arrival Date: February 18, 2009
Departure Date: March 10, 2009

Current location: Mendoza, Argentina
Arrival Date: March 10, 2009
Departure Date: March 17, 2009

Next Location: Santiago de Chile
Arrival Date: March 17, 2009
Departure Date: Undetermined

Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer
Blog at: http://randomtravelupdates.blogspot.com/

I waited too long again to write an update and now the events of the last three weeks swizzle in my head like sweet sugar candy memories. The pictures will say more than I can. Bright graffiti in the streets on Montevideo, colorful umbrellas on the beaches of Punte del Este, cobblestone corners in Colonia del Sacramento, tango dancing on the streets of Buenos Aires, breathtaking drops at Iguazu Falls National Park, Spanish classes and wine in Mendoza…and the Andes.

The Andes hang on my mind like an ex boyfriend that I just can’t forget. Jagged rocks tower above like colossuses and rugged terrain makes it hard to keep your feet on the ground, your head gets light, your heart races and you feel as though you might as well be in the clouds. I spend every moment wanting to return to them.

And Jon. I left him in the first camp on his way up to scale Cerro Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Andes, the Americas, the Western Hemisphere and the Southern Hemisphere. At 6,962 meters (22,841 ft) it is higher than any mountain outside of the Himalayas. It sits just a few kilometers east of the Chilean border, four hours by bus (and six more by foot) Northwest of Mendoza. Though, Jon is scaling the farther end of the mountain, which is a 35 kilometer walk to the base from the park entry and, from there, 8,000 vertical feet to the top. The season ends on March 15th, which gives Jon half the normal amount of time allotted to acclimatize and ascend. Being the end of the season also means less predictable weather, colder temps and stronger winds.

While I was at the first camp with Jon, a group of guides and film crew came by to film a segment about mountain rescue operations. There is a lot of controversy surrounding an only partially successful rescue operation in January that the Argentinean press is apparently covering with a bias against the rescuers. The ABC story takes a more impartial approach. It seems to be big news here, having come up in several separate conversations even after I returned to the city. I get the impression that fatal accidents aren’t so common.

In other news, I survived my first earthquake yesterday morning, which gave me the opportunity to learn that Mendoza province is the most seismically active in Argentina. The whole city was leveled in 1861 and hit again in 1985 and 2006 by medium intensity quakes. Apparently, mini quakes and earth tremors like the one I experienced are very common.

When Jon returns, we will depart for Santiago and from there up the Chilean coast to Bolivia where we’re likely to stay for a month.

Keep the emails coming. Bandwidth comes and goes, but I’ll definitely read them even if I don’t respond immediately. If you want a postcard, send me your address.

Love,

Melissa

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Random Travel Update 37

Last location: Farmington, UT
Arrival Date: January 19, 2009
Departure Date: February 05, 2009

Current location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: February 05, 2009
Departure Date: February 17, 2009

Next Location: Montevideo, Uruguay
Arrival Date: February 18, 2009
Departure Date: February 19, 2009

I have spent the better part of this month in a chocolate/sugar coma. And then, last Monday I was riding switch on my snowboard at The Canyons and I caught an edge throwing my head onto the ground which hurt and maybe gave me a mini concussion which I would know for sure if I went to the doctor but I won't because the test necessary for diagnosis costs too much money. So, perhaps this explains why I haven't written, called, texted or skyped you this month. I have barely researched our trip to South America. We leave Tuesday. I made Jon watch The Motorcycle Diaries to get psyched up. It turns out that the itinerary that Che and his friend Alberto took, is very similar to ours. Same time frame, same countries, same order. I don't foresee us turning into communist revolutionaries upon our return, though perhaps slightly softened, Spanish-speaking, Salsa-dancing capitalists…

Now, like I said, we have only scraped the surface in terms of pre-trip planning so this itinerary, beyond the next few weeks, is incredibly tentative, but good enough to give you a modest idea of where we'll be:

February
Montevideo, Uraguay
Punta del Este, Uruguay
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Cordoba, Argentina

March
Mendoza, Argentina
Santiago, Chile
Chilean Coast
Uyuni, Bolivia

April
Villa Tunari, Bolivia
La Paz, Bolivia/Lake Titicaca
Cuzco, Peru/ Machu Picchu

May
Lima, Peru
Undetermined, Venezuela

June
Undetermined, Colombia
Undetermined, Ecuador

July
Undetermined, Ecuador

Send me your recommendations and definitely let us know if you plan to be in any of those places around the proposed times. New pics from Arizona and Utah are at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer. In addition, you can now view all past and present Random Travel Updates at http://randomtravelupdates.blogspot.com/.

Love,

Melissa

Monday, January 19, 2009

Random Travel Update 36

Last location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: January 4, 2009
Departure Date: January 19, 2009

Current location: Phoenix, AZ (layover)
Arrival Date: January 19, 2009
Departure Date: January 19, 2009

Next Location: Farmington, UT
Arrival Date: January 19, 2009
Departure Date: TBD

I think it was my uncle who asked me the other day what I liked most about Tucson. So, being one that is prone to making lists, I decided to jot a few things down…

Why I like Tucson:

Not having ants/termites/mosquitoes in my bed/room/kitchen.
Going for a hike in the middle of January and having to shed my sweater because it's hot out.
Family dinners.
Not having to drive anywhere to go on a hike.
Cruising in the Prius and rolling down the windows for AC in December.
Lovin' Spoonfuls, Yoshimatsu, Karuna's, and The Casbah.
Burritos. Everywhere.
Cacti. Quail. Javalina. Roadrunners. Hummingbirds. Bunnies.
The cat.
My parents.


That being said, I leave Arizona today for Utah where I will meet up with Jon who has been away for the last three months. It is 80F in Tucson right now. It is 33F in Salt Lake. I brought gloves, a jacket and a snowboard :)

Tomorrow is an exciting day. If you have thoughts, comments, opinions about the inauguration, please share. If you'll be in DC, I would love for you to send along links to your photos.

Love,

Melissa

Monday, January 5, 2009

Random Travel Update 35

Last location: Banff, Canada
Arrival Date: December 26, 2008
Departure Date: January 4, 2009

Current location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: January 4, 2009
Departure Date: January 19, 2009

Next Location: Farmington, UT
Arrival Date: January 19, 2009
Departure Date: TBD

Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer

My non-vegan cousin may be the most brilliant vegan cook ever. This Christmas, her and my aunt teamed up to create one of the most righteous family feasts yet. We had terra chips, hummus, jalapeno cranberry sauce, strawberry mandarin spinach salad, cranberry bread, candied carrots, rosemary roasted potatoes, green bean supreme, a vegan roast by Field Roast Grain Meat (available at whole foods) and chocolate cake. Of particular note was the cranberry sauce, which is absolutely brilliant with jalapeño (who would have thought?); the vegan cranberry bread, which was sticky, tart and sweet to perfection; the green bean supreme which I never liked as a kid but love now that it’s been veganized; and the eggless chocolate cake which was decadently moist on the inside and flawlessly crisp around the edges. I have attached the recipes for you foodies out there. They are also available here with pictures.

When it became apparent that I would be in North America for the winter, my parents invited me to join them on their annual ski trip departing the day after Christmas. This year we went to Canada for the first time as a family. We stayed in Canmore, a small town between Calgary and Banff put on the map when it hosted the Nordic events for the 1988 Winter Olympic Games. 1988 is significant because it is the first year of Olympic Games that I ever watched. (Points to anyone who knows what city hosted the 1988 Summer Games.)

We skied three resorts in Banff National Park: Norquay, Sunshine and Lake Louise. Norquay is small and untouristed, a local spot with great attitude but not-so-great-snow. Sunshine and Lake Louise are world class resorts comparable to those in Colorado and Utah with wonderfully rugged (read rocky) terrain and a healthy respect for avalanche danger. On our fourth day, we took a break from downhill to try our skills at cross country skiing at Canmore’s Olympic Nordic Track. On our final day, we packed up and drove two hours north along the Icefields Parkway to stare in awe at the massive glacier formations and ice falls impressively suspended over towering rock formations.

If you live or travel in Alberta, I recommend checking out The Coup in Calgary, a super trendy joint serving up spectacular meals and a live DJ on the weekends. This place is no secret and is obscenely popular. Expect a worthwhile wait. In Canmore, I highly recommend The Chef’s Studio Japan for Sushi. The menu is great for vegans (they even leave the fish out of their miso), the staff is uber friendly and the bathrooms include chalk so that you can guiltlessly tag the walls. If you are anywhere in Canada, I recommend checking out the new Vegetarian Chicken Sandwich at KFC. Yes, Kentucky Fried Chicken sells vegan chicken that is absolutely delicious. The people at the counter may not know that it is vegan so make sure to ask for no mayo. Unfortunately, it is only available in Canada. So, if you live in Canada and don’t mind eating fried food every so often support it so that they’ll start offering it in the US. Related trivia: the first KFC ever is in South Salt Lake, Utah.

There is more to write but I’ll save it for update 36. Thanks to all of you who wrote back with your New Year’s updates!

Love,

Melissa

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Random Travel Update 34

Last Location: Costa Rica
Arrival Date: November 7, 2008
Departure Date: December 9, 2008

Current location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: December 9, 2008
Departure Date: December 26, 2008

Next location: Banff, Canada
Arrival Date: December 26, 2008
Departure Date: January 4, 2009

Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer

Costa Rica is an amazing country. I should have written more from the beach, but I think the photos speak for themselves. If Samara is any indication, then there is no understatement about the quality of beaches in Costa Rica. While in Samara, I explored tide pools and isolated beaches, walked along (and once by accident through) horse fields and river deltas, photographed monkeys and iguanas, was followed and befriended by several local dogs, took Spanish, dance, yoga, aerobics and jewelry making classes on the beach, tried the local firewater (www.guaroliquor.com), went on a canopy tour (http://samarabeach.com/wingnuts/index.html) of the rarest type of forest in the world-dry tropical, and experienced several dozen turtles all laying their eggs at night on a nearby unoccupied stretch of sand.

After returning to Heredia via a five hour standing-room-only bus trip from Samara, I packed my last week in Costa Rica with a historical music concert by the 10-time Grammy winner Juan Luis Guerra and his band 4 40 (cuatro cuarenta) from The Dominican Republic; a trip to the discotheque for some salsa con mis amigos; a tour of the local Café Britt Coffee Plantation in Barva and a tour of the Rainforest in Nacional Parque Braulio Carillo, in addition to my 20hr/week Spanish lessons.

All of the above activities were outstandingly wonderful and mind tingling. The Juan Luis Guerra (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juan_Luis_Guerra) concert was of pure luck. The show was scheduled for Sunday but was rescheduled due to rain. My teacher told us about it in class on Monday and when I asked the school receptionist about getting tickets, a friendly English student offered to give me and two of my amigas a ride. Getting tickets was another effort since their advertised price was 22,000 colones each (US$40). Way out of budget. After more effort, we discovered that 2 for 1 tickets were being sold for only 18,000 colones at the bank. After going to the bank, we discovered that the deal only applied to those holding a specific credit card which none of us had.

After pondering a bit more and almost giving up, our salsa instructor offered to call his friend who had the requisite card and ask him to pick up some discounted tickets at the bank for us. Since there were three of us, we were going to have to buy an extra ticket, but upon arriving at the bank we found a person selling her ticket for 8,000 colones. So, in all, we ended up with three tickets for a total of 26,000 colones ($16 each) just in time to drop off our books at home, eat a snack and head out to the show which, turned out to be nothing short of magnificent despite the six-inch deep mud trenches we had to trek through on the way there that nearly destroyed all of our shoes.

I spent the rest of the week studying and making the best of my last week at the school. On Friday, I met up with two friends from dance class and their two friends for a night out at the discotheques. Of course, I was terrified about the cigarette situation, but I figured that it was my last weekend and if I got sick, it wouldn't be the worst thing in the world. I really wanted to experience Salsa in its correct content.

After driving to our preferred club, we found that it was reserved out for a private party so we proceeded to drive to three more discotheques, all booked out by private parties. I didn't mind being driven around since two of the friends we were with were locals and we were able to exchange useful language tips with each other. We ended up at a sort of discotheque mall with over a dozen bars and clubs all in one main area. We found a dance club with a cheap cover that turned out to be perfect. They played salsa and meringue and cumbia and socca and hip hop and even I think a moment of techno. The best part is that it was big and airy with no active smokers in sight. So I was able to stay out late without getting sick.

The next morning I woke up naturally for breakfast at 7am, studied some, and then headed out for my walk to the nearby town of Barva for a tour of the Café Britt coffee factory. It was a sunny blue day and my walk was delightful. The tour too was delightful, if a little bit cheesy, and the tour guides let me demonstrate the proper coffee sampling technique for the audience, which was fun and won me a prize. I can demonstrate later if anyone is interested. Before heading home, I walked to the city of Barva town center and strolled around the central park where they just happened to be having a festival.

On Sunday, I woke up early again to catch a bus from Heredia to the capital city of San Jose in order to catch another bus from San Jose to Guapiles via the Parque Braulio Carillo about an hour north. There I took a delightful tour of the rainforest by Aerial Tram, which you can find info about at http://www.rainforestrams.com/craintro.html. It was pouring when I arrived, but I figured that it was likely going to be a lucky day for me since I had just seen the biggest rainbow of my life a few moments earlier on the bus ride up. So, despite being assured by the park staff that it had been raining all week and that it would continue to rain all day, I decided to wait in the giftshop just in case it stopped raining, which it did 15 minutes later.

There were no other tourists around so I had a tram and guide to myself, which meant that I could ask all the questions I wanted, practice my Spanish and have the binoculars all to myself when wildlife emerged. The tram tour was perfect because it traversed all layers of the forest from almost ground level to above the canopy. Did anyone else have the Reading Rainbow when they were kids? Being on the tram felt like being in a scene out of The Reading Rainbow, like I was suddenly transported by rainbow into this densely interesting and educational environment in a far away place.

After the hour and fifteen minute tram ride, my guide took me on a hike through the park pointing out significant or interesting plants along the way. We came across a tiny red and blue poison dart frog and a larger non-poison cute frog taking a nap on the orchid display, a coati, a very cute red oversized rodent-like animal, a huge ant, and a bunch of toucans, including rainbow-billed ones, which are especially pretty looking. Photos are at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer/CostaRica2. Though, the nature of being in the wild and not at a zoo was that the animals ran away pretty quickly in general and so it was not possible for me to get photos of most of them. I was lucky to get an up close shot of the toucans. There are a few more quality-looking photos of wildlife in Costa Rica posted at http://www.wildnatureimages.com/CostaRicaWildlifePhotos.htm.

After spending a few more minutes writing postcards and sampling the Café Britt chocolates at the gift shop, I returned to Heredia, checked out a dance performance by the local UNA university and ate dinner at my favorite Lebanese joint in Costa Rica, aptly named Comida Lebanesa. At 8pm, I hopped on a bus to Alajuela to catch up with a group to go white water rafting the next morning. Unfortunately, rafting was cancelled due to an overabundance of water on the river so I spent Monday hiking the coffee farm outside the hostel, socializing with the other hotel residents, checking out Alajuela proper and documenting the ant behavior on my bedsheets.

Tuesday saw my return home on a long series of short flights from Alajuela to Houston to Los Angeles to Tucson. Though sad to have left Costa Rica, I am thrilled to be back at home with my mom, dad, hot shower and bug-free bedroom.

Thanks to everyone for your travel tips and Costa Rica advice. It looks like I will have to return to Costa Rica someday to see everything that I missed out on this time.

Now to all my Canada peeps: let me know what's up in Alberta for New Years!

Love,

Melissa

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Random Travel Update 33

Last Location: Heredia, Costa Rica
Arrival Date: November 7, 2008
Departure Date: November 14, 2008

Last location: Monteverde y Volcan Arenal, Costa Rica
Arrival Date: November 14, 2008
Departure Date: November 16, 2008

Current location: Samara Beach, Costa Rica
Arrival Date: November 7, 2008
Departure Date: December 9, 2008

Next location: Undecided

Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer

Hola! Estoy en Costa Rica estudiar espanol. Yo quiero escribir esta cartra en espanol, pero no es possible por mi ahora. Tal vez en tres mas semanas…

I love it here. Before it even touched the ground, I understood why my plane was packed with tourists eager to spend their precious little vacation time on this rich coast. As my aircraft descended, the clouds parted to expose the luscious green landscape below: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer/CostaRica2008#5268283094517035762

Costa Rica is thoroughly beautiful, the tico (Costa Rican) culture is relaxed, the environment is generally well protected, and the infrastructure is simple. I live with host families of which I have two, one in Heredia and one in Samara. The accommodation, like the infrastructure, is simple but charming. My mama ticas are wonderfully caring and make me two delicious vegan meals a day.

My tico families don't speak English and I get plenty of practice between them, the staff at my school and my fellow students. My Spanish is improving rapidly, though I think that perhaps I am better at forgetting English than I am at learning Spanish.

I will leave the rest of the details to the few photos I have already taken: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer/CostaRica2008#. There is much here to do and I am keeping busy between my studies and all of the activities my school has available for us to participate (in Spanish, of course). I will add comments someday when I am back in English-speaking mode. In the meantime, I will do my best to reply to emails during my breaks. Extra points if you help me practice by writing in Espanol- though please try to keep language simple.

Love,

Melissa

Friday, November 7, 2008

Random Travel Update 32

Last Location: Los Angeles, California
Arrival Date: October 27, 2008
Departure Date: November 6, 2008

Current location: Heredia, Costa Rica
Arrival Date: November 7, 2008
Departure Date: December 9, 2008

Next location: Undetermined

Of all the places I have been or could have been in the world, there is nowhere that I would have rather been then right where I was during the eight days leading up to the most historical election of my lifetime. On Tuesday, November 4th, Californians passed a ballot initiative to end the intensive confinement of calves, pigs, and egg-laying hens in crates and cages so small the animals can't even turn around or extend their limbs. When implemented, the new law will affect 20 million animals, making their lives a little bit better in a significant way.

The landslide victory, 63 yes to 37 no, shows that treating the animals we raise for food with some standard of common decency is a mainstream value accepted by people from every demographic and political ideology. To those of you who contributed financial resources to this campaign or otherwise helped out, thank you and congratulations. For those of you still in the dark about Proposition 2 or the plight of animals on modern day factory farms, visit www.yesonprop2.com or the Humane Society's homepage www.hsus.org for more information about this landmark victory for farm animals.

My gratitude goes out to Josh Balk who suggested that I come out to California; to Paul, Brian, Eric, Sandy and Ryan who were amazing company during the last few days of the campaign; and to Jane and Mark Garrison (as well as Tuffy, Little, Daisy and Tiny) who put us all up with amazing hospitality in their gorgeous vegan utopia on Redondo Beach.

Another congratulations goes out to those of you who supported Obama for president. I have always been proud to be an American, but never in my lifetime have I been so proud of Americans as I am right now.

Pictures are up at http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer.
Click on the Prop 2 Campaign 2008 photo album.

I will send an update from Costa Rica soon.

Love,

Melissa