Last locations: Santa Cruz BL, Asunción de Guarayos BL, Samaipata BL, Cochabamba BL, Torotoro BL, Yungas Road BL
Arrival Date: April 10, 2009
Departure Date: May 1, 2009
Current location: La Paz, Bolivia
Arrival Date: May 2, 2009
Departure Date: May 9, 2009
Next Locations: Tiwanaku BL, Lake Titicaca BL, Cuzco, Peru
Arrival Date: May 10, 2009
Departure Date: undetermined
First, in regards to Swine Flu: Please, stop supporting confined animal agriculture. As complicated as the media tries to make the issue, it is no mystery as to how these epidemics come about. Anyone who has ever witnessed a modern day animal processing facility will attest to the filthy, overcrowded warehouse environments that breed such disease. The contemporary method of raising pigs, cows and birds for slaughter is not only cruel and environmentally degrading; it also poses a serious threat to public health.
To learn more factory farming and the current epidemic visit: http://www.hsus.org/farm/news/ournews/qa_on_swine_flu_050209.html
CNN also ran a news story highlighting this threat: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j10SQpCO9Wc.
The most effective thing that you can do as a concerned citizen is to boycott the meat industry. For tips on eating vegan visit: http://pcrm.org/health/veginfo/vsk/index.html.
We really like Bolivia. It is rugged, moderately undeveloped, colorful and cheap. Taking a bus is still an adventure here. Our first bus ride from Uyuni to Sucre included 10 hours of unpaved, unmaintained road, five river/wash crossings, countless sharp turns on narrow roads bordered by steep drops and passing vehicles, a guy who threw up two times, a three hour wait in near freezing weather at 2am for a transfer bus with no bathroom access. Following that, we learned that planes are actually quite a good deal in Bolivia, costing less than the same distance in Argentina by bus in cama or super-cama class.
The Bolivians may be some of the cutest people in the world. On Sunday we went to something called “Cholita Wrestling” which involves cholitas (the diminutive form of “chola” which refers to indigenous Bolivianas who live in cities rather than in rural indigenous villages) wrestling cholos (masculine form) in a boxing ring. Though not specifically about Bolivia, the movie “Nacho Libre” would provide you with a very good idea of the nature of the event. Or you can watch a match on youtube. The Cholitas tolerate getting beat up pretty bad before they come back to win the match. If your interest is spiked regarding all things Cholita, the Travel Channel has an episode dedicated to them.
Today we did a super-touristy thing and biked the ¨World´s Most Dangerous Road¨ proclaimed as such in 1995 by the Inter-American Development Bank in reaction to its record annual death toll of 200 to 300 passengers. A few days ago, we rented a car (Jon´s idea) and headed out from Cochabamba to the very rural town of Torotoro to explore caves, canyons and dinosaur prints. Previous to arriving in the desert college city of Cochabamba (not unlike Tucson), we spent ten days in the beautiful town of Samaipata where we spent our time taking Spanish lessons, meeting with locals, and volunteering at an animal refuge. Before that, we attended the Biennial
International Theater Festival in Santa Cruz, during which we learned acrobatics (pictures to come). And, previous to Santa Cruz, we stayed in the charming city of Sucre after the completion of our 3-day tour by jeep of The Reserva National de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa and the Salar de Uyuni; the highest, largest and most impressive salt flat in the world.
There is more to say. I think Jon plans to elaborate on each activity in his next blog post. Look out for it next week at elfanoos.blogspot.com. For about half of the Bolivia pictures, check out http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer/Bolivia#. Check again next week for more.
Love,
Melissa
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
Random Travel Update 40
Last locations: Santiago CL, Viña del Mar CL, Valparaiso CL, La Serena CL, San Pedro de Atacama CL, Uyuni BL
Arrival Date: March 17, 2009
Departure Date: April 6, 2009
Current location: Sucre, Bolivia
Arrival Date: April 7, 2009
Departure Date: April 10, 2009
Next Location: Santa Cruz, Bolivia
Arrival Date: April 10, 2009
Departure Date: April 12, 2009
Long email synopsis: Chile is a very awesome country, diverse both in geography and demography. Check out the new “Thanks!” column at http://randomtravelupdates.blogspot.com and photos coming soon to http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer. Jon's blog is being very well maintained at http://elfanoos.blogspot.com.
Santiago, Los Andes, Viña del Mar, Valparaiso, La Serena, San Pedro de Atacama. City, mountains, beach, port, beach and desert. Chile has a privileged geography, encompassing the greater part of the western coast of South America. It is as tall, North to South, as the United States is wide but thinner across than the state of California. Bordered on one side by the Andes and on the other by the Pacific, it is in a good position for self defense and since its liberation from Spain has successfully defeated both Peru and Bolivia to reach its current size.
Chile is a beautiful country. Every bit of it, from the Punk-ridden streets of Santiago to the unapologetic street art in Valparaiso, the rolling valleys flanked by beaches in La Serena and the desolate but serene desert landscape in Atacama. And that isn’t even half of it. The South is said to have some of the best scenery.
And Chile, like Argentina, isn’t poor. Some call it the most European country in South America, but Jon and I both found it distinctively more American than Argentina. In line with Buenos Aires over the top Europeanism, I would venture to call Santiago one of the most American countries in the world. Gargantuan shopping malls occupy more than several strips of land, containing familiar names such as Ruby Tuesdays, Taco Bell, and Roxy/Quicksilver. The music scene is alive and well and the style-Punk, Goth, Hippy and Emo-rivals (if not outright beats) that of New York City of LA.
Thanks to Chile’s liberal immigration policies, the population is diverse and the food scene is cosmopolitan. Capitalism seems to reign, but public dissent is common and, as in Uruguay and Argentina, is often expressed in spray paint. In Santiago, we finally got to see the vast street markets that we get a small taste of in DC, where vendors sell everything from stockings, to fruit juice, sunglasses, used clothes, empanadas and brand name knock-off goods.
Despite comments from fellow travelers that Santiago was only worth a passing day on the way to more worthwhile Chilean spots, we adored it and ended up staying for four. Though, perhaps it was in part due to our luck in having Jon’s childhood neighbor, Joel, from Farmington and his beautiful Chilean bride, Paulina, there to show us around.
We got bored in Viña del Mar but ate up the scenery in Valparaiso, which wins the award for coolest, or at least most art inspired, city in America. The pictures say more than I can. With art, it seems, comes good veg food. We ate our share of vegan hamburgers, soy carne empanadas, seiten-lasagna, banana-soymilk liquados (smoothies) and vegan churros. Perhaps it was too easy. For me, negotiating “beans instead of meat” and “avocado for cheese” has very much added to the uniqueness of my travel experience.
That being said, our best food was by far in La Serena where Nichole, one of my friends from Tucson’s, family resides. They generously offered to host us for three nights on our way from Viña to San Pedro, and the stop turned out to be more than worthwhile. More than gracious, they went out of their way to serve us vegan versions of Chilean delights such as pastel de choclo, fresh bean soup, and sautéed veggie lasagna. Ricisimo! Makes me wonder why don’t we have more Chilean food in the US. On top of it, Nicole’s dad, who is an astronomer and pilot, took Jon, me and Nicole’s cousin, Christian, on a private flight in a Cessna 182 to view the local scenery from an advantaged position.
It is impossible to thank our many hosts enough for their generosity and for what they contribute to our travel experience and global education. As a small token of our appreciation, I have added a “Thanks!” column to the left-hand side of my blog. Check it out at: http://randomtravelupdates.blogspot.com.
A 17-hour overnight bus took us from La Serena to San Pedro, a small, but heavily touristed pueblo on the Northwestern edge of Chile. There we realized that not all Chileans are as patient with our gringo-ness as our friends in Santiago and La Serena. But we loved it all the same. Being in the desert was like home for me and the surrounding mountains like home for Jon. The town, however, was in many ways cooler than home.
Despite a huge influx of tourism in the last few years, San Pedro has managed to hang on to its all-adobe structures and dirt streets. Cars are rare and necessary only for travel outside the town as the pueblo encompasses maybe four square blocks. The highlight was stargazing at a French astronomer’s house a few kilometers outside of San Pedro. Nichole’s dad had told us that San Pedro is the world’s foremost location for astronomy due to its classification as the world’s driest desert (no clouds or rain). We were thankful for the insider advice.
Another great experience was sandboarding, which I found works much better with real snowboards, functional Velcro bindings and wax (my sandboarding experience in UAE was useless). After sandboarding, I managed to re-sprain my left ankle in The Valley of the Moon and had to take a few days off laying in bed with ice reading the book that Jon’s Kiwi friend from his Aconcagua summit gave us. It is the first book I have read for pleasure since my book sabbatical, which began right after I graduated from college. I was reminded about how much I like to read and also that my imagination may be a bit too overactive for Truman Capote’s In Cold Blood. I spent several nights up into the early hours analyzing the perfectly detailed psychology of the crime. Perhaps I should stick to Spanish-language children’s books.
We are now in Bolivia and it feels like our South American adventure has just begun. Cheap food, dirty buses, unpaved roads, cutting edge indigenous fashion and breathtaking scenery is key. We’ve been here four days and already I am in love with the experience. Jon calls Bolivia “the land of my dreams” since several scenes have evoked deep memories of past sleepful experiences.
More on Bolivia later. My hard drive is full and space (and time) must be made for photos. Look for Chile pics later this week or next at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer.
Love,
Melissa
Arrival Date: March 17, 2009
Departure Date: April 6, 2009
Current location: Sucre, Bolivia
Arrival Date: April 7, 2009
Departure Date: April 10, 2009
Next Location: Santa Cruz, Bolivia
Arrival Date: April 10, 2009
Departure Date: April 12, 2009
Long email synopsis: Chile is a very awesome country, diverse both in geography and demography. Check out the new “Thanks!” column at http://randomtravelupdates.blogspot.com and photos coming soon to http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer. Jon's blog is being very well maintained at http://elfanoos.blogspot.com.
Santiago, Los Andes, Viña del Mar, Valparaiso, La Serena, San Pedro de Atacama. City, mountains, beach, port, beach and desert. Chile has a privileged geography, encompassing the greater part of the western coast of South America. It is as tall, North to South, as the United States is wide but thinner across than the state of California. Bordered on one side by the Andes and on the other by the Pacific, it is in a good position for self defense and since its liberation from Spain has successfully defeated both Peru and Bolivia to reach its current size.
Chile is a beautiful country. Every bit of it, from the Punk-ridden streets of Santiago to the unapologetic street art in Valparaiso, the rolling valleys flanked by beaches in La Serena and the desolate but serene desert landscape in Atacama. And that isn’t even half of it. The South is said to have some of the best scenery.
And Chile, like Argentina, isn’t poor. Some call it the most European country in South America, but Jon and I both found it distinctively more American than Argentina. In line with Buenos Aires over the top Europeanism, I would venture to call Santiago one of the most American countries in the world. Gargantuan shopping malls occupy more than several strips of land, containing familiar names such as Ruby Tuesdays, Taco Bell, and Roxy/Quicksilver. The music scene is alive and well and the style-Punk, Goth, Hippy and Emo-rivals (if not outright beats) that of New York City of LA.
Thanks to Chile’s liberal immigration policies, the population is diverse and the food scene is cosmopolitan. Capitalism seems to reign, but public dissent is common and, as in Uruguay and Argentina, is often expressed in spray paint. In Santiago, we finally got to see the vast street markets that we get a small taste of in DC, where vendors sell everything from stockings, to fruit juice, sunglasses, used clothes, empanadas and brand name knock-off goods.
Despite comments from fellow travelers that Santiago was only worth a passing day on the way to more worthwhile Chilean spots, we adored it and ended up staying for four. Though, perhaps it was in part due to our luck in having Jon’s childhood neighbor, Joel, from Farmington and his beautiful Chilean bride, Paulina, there to show us around.
We got bored in Viña del Mar but ate up the scenery in Valparaiso, which wins the award for coolest, or at least most art inspired, city in America. The pictures say more than I can. With art, it seems, comes good veg food. We ate our share of vegan hamburgers, soy carne empanadas, seiten-lasagna, banana-soymilk liquados (smoothies) and vegan churros. Perhaps it was too easy. For me, negotiating “beans instead of meat” and “avocado for cheese” has very much added to the uniqueness of my travel experience.
That being said, our best food was by far in La Serena where Nichole, one of my friends from Tucson’s, family resides. They generously offered to host us for three nights on our way from Viña to San Pedro, and the stop turned out to be more than worthwhile. More than gracious, they went out of their way to serve us vegan versions of Chilean delights such as pastel de choclo, fresh bean soup, and sautéed veggie lasagna. Ricisimo! Makes me wonder why don’t we have more Chilean food in the US. On top of it, Nicole’s dad, who is an astronomer and pilot, took Jon, me and Nicole’s cousin, Christian, on a private flight in a Cessna 182 to view the local scenery from an advantaged position.
It is impossible to thank our many hosts enough for their generosity and for what they contribute to our travel experience and global education. As a small token of our appreciation, I have added a “Thanks!” column to the left-hand side of my blog. Check it out at: http://randomtravelupdates.blogspot.com.
A 17-hour overnight bus took us from La Serena to San Pedro, a small, but heavily touristed pueblo on the Northwestern edge of Chile. There we realized that not all Chileans are as patient with our gringo-ness as our friends in Santiago and La Serena. But we loved it all the same. Being in the desert was like home for me and the surrounding mountains like home for Jon. The town, however, was in many ways cooler than home.
Despite a huge influx of tourism in the last few years, San Pedro has managed to hang on to its all-adobe structures and dirt streets. Cars are rare and necessary only for travel outside the town as the pueblo encompasses maybe four square blocks. The highlight was stargazing at a French astronomer’s house a few kilometers outside of San Pedro. Nichole’s dad had told us that San Pedro is the world’s foremost location for astronomy due to its classification as the world’s driest desert (no clouds or rain). We were thankful for the insider advice.
Another great experience was sandboarding, which I found works much better with real snowboards, functional Velcro bindings and wax (my sandboarding experience in UAE was useless). After sandboarding, I managed to re-sprain my left ankle in The Valley of the Moon and had to take a few days off laying in bed with ice reading the book that Jon’s Kiwi friend from his Aconcagua summit gave us. It is the first book I have read for pleasure since my book sabbatical, which began right after I graduated from college. I was reminded about how much I like to read and also that my imagination may be a bit too overactive for Truman Capote’s In Cold Blood. I spent several nights up into the early hours analyzing the perfectly detailed psychology of the crime. Perhaps I should stick to Spanish-language children’s books.
We are now in Bolivia and it feels like our South American adventure has just begun. Cheap food, dirty buses, unpaved roads, cutting edge indigenous fashion and breathtaking scenery is key. We’ve been here four days and already I am in love with the experience. Jon calls Bolivia “the land of my dreams” since several scenes have evoked deep memories of past sleepful experiences.
More on Bolivia later. My hard drive is full and space (and time) must be made for photos. Look for Chile pics later this week or next at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer.
Love,
Melissa
Monday, March 30, 2009
Random Travel Update 39
Last locations: Santiago CL, Vina del Mar CL, Valparaiso CL
Arrival Date: March 17, 2009
Departure Date: March 27, 2009
Current location: La Serena, Chile
Arrival Date: March 28, 2009
Departure Date: March 30, 2009
Next Location: San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
Arrival Date: March 31, 2009
Departure Date: April 2, 2009
We are three countries into our South American itinerary. It helps not to plan a trip if you want to be truly surprised when you arrive. When I read in the Lonely Planet that Argentina’s economy had crashed in the early aughts, I had imagined rampant unemployment, abandoned storefronts and dingy supermarkets. It doesn’t help that my worldview of Latin America has been decidedly shaped by my earliest trips to the grubby streets of Nogales and litter-strewn beaches of Puerto Peñasco in Mexico as a child.
Argentina is not a poor country. In fact, in the early 1900s, it possessed one of the world’s richest economies. The gorgeous architecture, efficiently wide street design and abundance of monuments, parks and urban forestry in both Buenos Aires and Mendoza is a testament to Argentina’s history of wealth. Since its heyday, Argentina has had significant political turbulence and economic instability. The 80s and 90s were a dark period and in late 2001/early 2002, the country officially defaulted on its $93 billion debt and plummeted into economic turmoil. You wouldn’t know it visiting though.
While locals complain about things not being the same since the collapse-for example certain products are no longer regularly stocked on supermarket shelves and the sidewalks aren’t always repaired- Argentina itself is still distinguished. The supermarkets are supermarkets just like those in the US with sorted isles, air-conditioning, grocery carts and automated registers; the highways are developed, lit and paved; the tap water is potable, even for visitors; hot water is ubiquitous and the service establishments are clean and comfortable. The Argentinians themselves are proud, well dressed, well spoken and generally relaxed. The architecture, population demographic, and cultural ambiance is very European. So much so that a fellow traveler called Buenos Aires the “most European city in the world”. When asked to clarify that is was the most European city outside of Europe. He said, “No, the most European city including Europe!”
It is very European. Except perhaps cleaner and more modern. Not to mention, a much better value travel-wise. Consider it when you go to book that next trip to Paris or Rome.
Uruguay is also incredibly European with charming architecture, inspiring street art and a pasta/pizza eating population. The three cities we visited: Montevideo, Punta del Este and Colonia del Sacramento each had their own distinct vibe. Montevideo is a quite, picturesque city along the coast. The city’s working population appears around 6pm to drink mate out of handcrafted gourds, replenishing each cup from their mobile thermos. Punta del Este is a ritzy beach resort city with strings of expensive high rise apartments and upscale restaurants crowded along the boardwalk overlooking modest strips of sand overrun by Uruguayan and Argentinean ajumas and their brightly colored umbrellas. It is expensive. Colonia is a small colonial-style town with cobblestone streets, willows and an atmosphere that feels like letting out a long sigh, ahhhhhhhh. And from there you can take a ferry to Buenos Aires.
Chile deserves it’s own update. We are currently in La Serena, heading to north to San Pedro de Atacama this evening. I will try to send out another update before we reach Bolivia.
There are new photos from Mendoza at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer/Argentina.
Jon's blog and some sweet pictures from his Aconcagua summit are at: http://elfanoos.blogspot.com.
Love,
Melissa
Arrival Date: March 17, 2009
Departure Date: March 27, 2009
Current location: La Serena, Chile
Arrival Date: March 28, 2009
Departure Date: March 30, 2009
Next Location: San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
Arrival Date: March 31, 2009
Departure Date: April 2, 2009
We are three countries into our South American itinerary. It helps not to plan a trip if you want to be truly surprised when you arrive. When I read in the Lonely Planet that Argentina’s economy had crashed in the early aughts, I had imagined rampant unemployment, abandoned storefronts and dingy supermarkets. It doesn’t help that my worldview of Latin America has been decidedly shaped by my earliest trips to the grubby streets of Nogales and litter-strewn beaches of Puerto Peñasco in Mexico as a child.
Argentina is not a poor country. In fact, in the early 1900s, it possessed one of the world’s richest economies. The gorgeous architecture, efficiently wide street design and abundance of monuments, parks and urban forestry in both Buenos Aires and Mendoza is a testament to Argentina’s history of wealth. Since its heyday, Argentina has had significant political turbulence and economic instability. The 80s and 90s were a dark period and in late 2001/early 2002, the country officially defaulted on its $93 billion debt and plummeted into economic turmoil. You wouldn’t know it visiting though.
While locals complain about things not being the same since the collapse-for example certain products are no longer regularly stocked on supermarket shelves and the sidewalks aren’t always repaired- Argentina itself is still distinguished. The supermarkets are supermarkets just like those in the US with sorted isles, air-conditioning, grocery carts and automated registers; the highways are developed, lit and paved; the tap water is potable, even for visitors; hot water is ubiquitous and the service establishments are clean and comfortable. The Argentinians themselves are proud, well dressed, well spoken and generally relaxed. The architecture, population demographic, and cultural ambiance is very European. So much so that a fellow traveler called Buenos Aires the “most European city in the world”. When asked to clarify that is was the most European city outside of Europe. He said, “No, the most European city including Europe!”
It is very European. Except perhaps cleaner and more modern. Not to mention, a much better value travel-wise. Consider it when you go to book that next trip to Paris or Rome.
Uruguay is also incredibly European with charming architecture, inspiring street art and a pasta/pizza eating population. The three cities we visited: Montevideo, Punta del Este and Colonia del Sacramento each had their own distinct vibe. Montevideo is a quite, picturesque city along the coast. The city’s working population appears around 6pm to drink mate out of handcrafted gourds, replenishing each cup from their mobile thermos. Punta del Este is a ritzy beach resort city with strings of expensive high rise apartments and upscale restaurants crowded along the boardwalk overlooking modest strips of sand overrun by Uruguayan and Argentinean ajumas and their brightly colored umbrellas. It is expensive. Colonia is a small colonial-style town with cobblestone streets, willows and an atmosphere that feels like letting out a long sigh, ahhhhhhhh. And from there you can take a ferry to Buenos Aires.
Chile deserves it’s own update. We are currently in La Serena, heading to north to San Pedro de Atacama this evening. I will try to send out another update before we reach Bolivia.
There are new photos from Mendoza at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer/Argentina.
Jon's blog and some sweet pictures from his Aconcagua summit are at: http://elfanoos.blogspot.com.
Love,
Melissa
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Random Travel Update 38
Last locations: Montevideo, UR; Punta del Este, UR; Colonia del Sacramento, UR; Buenos Aires, AR; Iguazu Falls, AR; Mendoza, AR; Penitentes, AR; Parque Aconcagua, AR
Arrival Date: February 18, 2009
Departure Date: March 10, 2009
Current location: Mendoza, Argentina
Arrival Date: March 10, 2009
Departure Date: March 17, 2009
Next Location: Santiago de Chile
Arrival Date: March 17, 2009
Departure Date: Undetermined
Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer
Blog at: http://randomtravelupdates.blogspot.com/
I waited too long again to write an update and now the events of the last three weeks swizzle in my head like sweet sugar candy memories. The pictures will say more than I can. Bright graffiti in the streets on Montevideo, colorful umbrellas on the beaches of Punte del Este, cobblestone corners in Colonia del Sacramento, tango dancing on the streets of Buenos Aires, breathtaking drops at Iguazu Falls National Park, Spanish classes and wine in Mendoza…and the Andes.
The Andes hang on my mind like an ex boyfriend that I just can’t forget. Jagged rocks tower above like colossuses and rugged terrain makes it hard to keep your feet on the ground, your head gets light, your heart races and you feel as though you might as well be in the clouds. I spend every moment wanting to return to them.
And Jon. I left him in the first camp on his way up to scale Cerro Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Andes, the Americas, the Western Hemisphere and the Southern Hemisphere. At 6,962 meters (22,841 ft) it is higher than any mountain outside of the Himalayas. It sits just a few kilometers east of the Chilean border, four hours by bus (and six more by foot) Northwest of Mendoza. Though, Jon is scaling the farther end of the mountain, which is a 35 kilometer walk to the base from the park entry and, from there, 8,000 vertical feet to the top. The season ends on March 15th, which gives Jon half the normal amount of time allotted to acclimatize and ascend. Being the end of the season also means less predictable weather, colder temps and stronger winds.
While I was at the first camp with Jon, a group of guides and film crew came by to film a segment about mountain rescue operations. There is a lot of controversy surrounding an only partially successful rescue operation in January that the Argentinean press is apparently covering with a bias against the rescuers. The ABC story takes a more impartial approach. It seems to be big news here, having come up in several separate conversations even after I returned to the city. I get the impression that fatal accidents aren’t so common.
In other news, I survived my first earthquake yesterday morning, which gave me the opportunity to learn that Mendoza province is the most seismically active in Argentina. The whole city was leveled in 1861 and hit again in 1985 and 2006 by medium intensity quakes. Apparently, mini quakes and earth tremors like the one I experienced are very common.
When Jon returns, we will depart for Santiago and from there up the Chilean coast to Bolivia where we’re likely to stay for a month.
Keep the emails coming. Bandwidth comes and goes, but I’ll definitely read them even if I don’t respond immediately. If you want a postcard, send me your address.
Love,
Melissa
Arrival Date: February 18, 2009
Departure Date: March 10, 2009
Current location: Mendoza, Argentina
Arrival Date: March 10, 2009
Departure Date: March 17, 2009
Next Location: Santiago de Chile
Arrival Date: March 17, 2009
Departure Date: Undetermined
Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.
Blog at: http://randomtravelupdates.
I waited too long again to write an update and now the events of the last three weeks swizzle in my head like sweet sugar candy memories. The pictures will say more than I can. Bright graffiti in the streets on Montevideo, colorful umbrellas on the beaches of Punte del Este, cobblestone corners in Colonia del Sacramento, tango dancing on the streets of Buenos Aires, breathtaking drops at Iguazu Falls National Park, Spanish classes and wine in Mendoza…and the Andes.
The Andes hang on my mind like an ex boyfriend that I just can’t forget. Jagged rocks tower above like colossuses and rugged terrain makes it hard to keep your feet on the ground, your head gets light, your heart races and you feel as though you might as well be in the clouds. I spend every moment wanting to return to them.
And Jon. I left him in the first camp on his way up to scale Cerro Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Andes, the Americas, the Western Hemisphere and the Southern Hemisphere. At 6,962 meters (22,841 ft) it is higher than any mountain outside of the Himalayas. It sits just a few kilometers east of the Chilean border, four hours by bus (and six more by foot) Northwest of Mendoza. Though, Jon is scaling the farther end of the mountain, which is a 35 kilometer walk to the base from the park entry and, from there, 8,000 vertical feet to the top. The season ends on March 15th, which gives Jon half the normal amount of time allotted to acclimatize and ascend. Being the end of the season also means less predictable weather, colder temps and stronger winds.
While I was at the first camp with Jon, a group of guides and film crew came by to film a segment about mountain rescue operations. There is a lot of controversy surrounding an only partially successful rescue operation in January that the Argentinean press is apparently covering with a bias against the rescuers. The ABC story takes a more impartial approach. It seems to be big news here, having come up in several separate conversations even after I returned to the city. I get the impression that fatal accidents aren’t so common.
In other news, I survived my first earthquake yesterday morning, which gave me the opportunity to learn that Mendoza province is the most seismically active in Argentina. The whole city was leveled in 1861 and hit again in 1985 and 2006 by medium intensity quakes. Apparently, mini quakes and earth tremors like the one I experienced are very common.
When Jon returns, we will depart for Santiago and from there up the Chilean coast to Bolivia where we’re likely to stay for a month.
Keep the emails coming. Bandwidth comes and goes, but I’ll definitely read them even if I don’t respond immediately. If you want a postcard, send me your address.
Love,
Melissa
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Random Travel Update 37
Last location: Farmington, UT
Current location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: February 05, 2009
Departure Date: February 17, 2009
Next Location: Montevideo, Uruguay
Arrival Date: February 18, 2009
Departure Date: February 19, 2009
I have spent the better part of this month in a chocolate/sugar coma. And then, last Monday I was riding switch on my snowboard at The Canyons and I caught an edge throwing my head onto the ground which hurt and maybe gave me a mini concussion which I would know for sure if I went to the doctor but I won't because the test necessary for diagnosis costs too much money. So, perhaps this explains why I haven't written, called, texted or skyped you this month. I have barely researched our trip to South America. We leave Tuesday. I made Jon watch The Motorcycle Diaries to get psyched up. It turns out that the itinerary that Che and his friend Alberto took, is very similar to ours. Same time frame, same countries, same order. I don't foresee us turning into communist revolutionaries upon our return, though perhaps slightly softened, Spanish-speaking, Salsa-dancing capitalists…
Now, like I said, we have only scraped the surface in terms of pre-trip planning so this itinerary, beyond the next few weeks, is incredibly tentative, but good enough to give you a modest idea of where we'll be:
February
Montevideo, Uraguay
Punta del Este, Uruguay
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Cordoba, Argentina
March
Mendoza, Argentina
Santiago, Chile
Chilean Coast
Uyuni, Bolivia
April
Villa Tunari, Bolivia
La Paz, Bolivia/Lake Titicaca
Cuzco, Peru/ Machu Picchu
May
Lima, Peru
Undetermined, Venezuela
June
Undetermined, Colombia
Undetermined, Ecuador
July
Undetermined, Ecuador
Send me your recommendations and definitely let us know if you plan to be in any of those places around the proposed times. New pics from Arizona and Utah are at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer . In addition, you can now view all past and present Random Travel Updates at http://randomtravelupdates.blogspot.com/ .
Love,
Melissa
Arrival Date: January 19, 2009
Departure Date: February 05, 2009Current location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: February 05, 2009
Departure Date: February 17, 2009
Next Location: Montevideo, Uruguay
Arrival Date: February 18, 2009
Departure Date: February 19, 2009
I have spent the better part of this month in a chocolate/sugar coma. And then, last Monday I was riding switch on my snowboard at The Canyons and I caught an edge throwing my head onto the ground which hurt and maybe gave me a mini concussion which I would know for sure if I went to the doctor but I won't because the test necessary for diagnosis costs too much money. So, perhaps this explains why I haven't written, called, texted or skyped you this month. I have barely researched our trip to South America. We leave Tuesday. I made Jon watch The Motorcycle Diaries to get psyched up. It turns out that the itinerary that Che and his friend Alberto took, is very similar to ours. Same time frame, same countries, same order. I don't foresee us turning into communist revolutionaries upon our return, though perhaps slightly softened, Spanish-speaking, Salsa-dancing capitalists…
Now, like I said, we have only scraped the surface in terms of pre-trip planning so this itinerary, beyond the next few weeks, is incredibly tentative, but good enough to give you a modest idea of where we'll be:
February
Montevideo, Uraguay
Punta del Este, Uruguay
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Cordoba, Argentina
March
Mendoza, Argentina
Santiago, Chile
Chilean Coast
Uyuni, Bolivia
April
Villa Tunari, Bolivia
La Paz, Bolivia/Lake Titicaca
Cuzco, Peru/ Machu Picchu
May
Lima, Peru
Undetermined, Venezuela
June
Undetermined, Colombia
Undetermined, Ecuador
July
Undetermined, Ecuador
Send me your recommendations and definitely let us know if you plan to be in any of those places around the proposed times. New pics from Arizona and Utah are at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.
Love,
Melissa
Monday, January 19, 2009
Random Travel Update 36
Last location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: January 4, 2009
Departure Date: January 19, 2009
Current location: Phoenix, AZ (layover)
Arrival Date: January 19, 2009
Departure Date: January 19, 2009
Next Location: Farmington, UT
Arrival Date: January 19, 2009
Departure Date: TBD
I think it was my uncle who asked me the other day what I liked most about Tucson. So, being one that is prone to making lists, I decided to jot a few things down…
Why I like Tucson:
Not having ants/termites/mosquitoes in my bed/room/kitchen.
Going for a hike in the middle of January and having to shed my sweater because it's hot out.
Family dinners.
Not having to drive anywhere to go on a hike.
Cruising in the Prius and rolling down the windows for AC in December.
Lovin' Spoonfuls, Yoshimatsu, Karuna's, and The Casbah.
Burritos. Everywhere.
Cacti. Quail. Javalina. Roadrunners. Hummingbirds. Bunnies.
The cat.
My parents.
That being said, I leave Arizona today for Utah where I will meet up with Jon who has been away for the last three months. It is 80F in Tucson right now. It is 33F in Salt Lake. I brought gloves, a jacket and a snowboard :)
Tomorrow is an exciting day. If you have thoughts, comments, opinions about the inauguration, please share. If you'll be in DC, I would love for you to send along links to your photos.
Love,
Melissa
Arrival Date: January 4, 2009
Departure Date: January 19, 2009
Current location: Phoenix, AZ (layover)
Arrival Date: January 19, 2009
Departure Date: January 19, 2009
Next Location: Farmington, UT
Arrival Date: January 19, 2009
Departure Date: TBD
I think it was my uncle who asked me the other day what I liked most about Tucson. So, being one that is prone to making lists, I decided to jot a few things down…
Why I like Tucson:
Not having ants/termites/mosquitoes in my bed/room/kitchen.
Going for a hike in the middle of January and having to shed my sweater because it's hot out.
Family dinners.
Not having to drive anywhere to go on a hike.
Cruising in the Prius and rolling down the windows for AC in December.
Lovin' Spoonfuls, Yoshimatsu, Karuna's, and The Casbah.
Burritos. Everywhere.
Cacti. Quail. Javalina. Roadrunners. Hummingbirds. Bunnies.
The cat.
My parents.
That being said, I leave Arizona today for Utah where I will meet up with Jon who has been away for the last three months. It is 80F in Tucson right now. It is 33F in Salt Lake. I brought gloves, a jacket and a snowboard :)
Tomorrow is an exciting day. If you have thoughts, comments, opinions about the inauguration, please share. If you'll be in DC, I would love for you to send along links to your photos.
Love,
Melissa
Monday, January 5, 2009
Random Travel Update 35
Last location: Banff, Canada
Arrival Date: December 26, 2008
Departure Date: January 4, 2009
Current location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: January 4, 2009
Departure Date: January 19, 2009
Next Location: Farmington, UT
Arrival Date: January 19, 2009
Departure Date: TBD
Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.melissa.meyer
My non-vegan cousin may be the most brilliant vegan cook ever. This Christmas, her and my aunt teamed up to create one of the most righteous family feasts yet. We had terra chips, hummus, jalapeno cranberry sauce, strawberry mandarin spinach salad, cranberry bread, candied carrots, rosemary roasted potatoes, green bean supreme, a vegan roast by Field Roast Grain Meat (available at whole foods) and chocolate cake. Of particular note was the cranberry sauce, which is absolutely brilliant with jalapeño (who would have thought?); the vegan cranberry bread, which was sticky, tart and sweet to perfection; the green bean supreme which I never liked as a kid but love now that it’s been veganized; and the eggless chocolate cake which was decadently moist on the inside and flawlessly crisp around the edges. I have attached the recipes for you foodies out there. They are also available here with pictures.
When it became apparent that I would be in North America for the winter, my parents invited me to join them on their annual ski trip departing the day after Christmas. This year we went to Canada for the first time as a family. We stayed in Canmore, a small town between Calgary and Banff put on the map when it hosted the Nordic events for the 1988 Winter Olympic Games. 1988 is significant because it is the first year of Olympic Games that I ever watched. (Points to anyone who knows what city hosted the 1988 Summer Games.)
We skied three resorts in Banff National Park: Norquay, Sunshine and Lake Louise. Norquay is small and untouristed, a local spot with great attitude but not-so-great-snow. Sunshine and Lake Louise are world class resorts comparable to those in Colorado and Utah with wonderfully rugged (read rocky) terrain and a healthy respect for avalanche danger. On our fourth day, we took a break from downhill to try our skills at cross country skiing at Canmore’s Olympic Nordic Track. On our final day, we packed up and drove two hours north along the Icefields Parkway to stare in awe at the massive glacier formations and ice falls impressively suspended over towering rock formations.
If you live or travel in Alberta, I recommend checking out The Coup in Calgary, a super trendy joint serving up spectacular meals and a live DJ on the weekends. This place is no secret and is obscenely popular. Expect a worthwhile wait. In Canmore, I highly recommend The Chef’s Studio Japan for Sushi. The menu is great for vegans (they even leave the fish out of their miso), the staff is uber friendly and the bathrooms include chalk so that you can guiltlessly tag the walls. If you are anywhere in Canada, I recommend checking out the new Vegetarian Chicken Sandwich at KFC. Yes, Kentucky Fried Chicken sells vegan chicken that is absolutely delicious. The people at the counter may not know that it is vegan so make sure to ask for no mayo. Unfortunately, it is only available in Canada. So, if you live in Canada and don’t mind eating fried food every so often support it so that they’ll start offering it in the US. Related trivia: the first KFC ever is in South Salt Lake, Utah.
There is more to write but I’ll save it for update 36. Thanks to all of you who wrote back with your New Year’s updates!
Love,
Melissa
Arrival Date: December 26, 2008
Departure Date: January 4, 2009
Current location: Tucson, AZ
Arrival Date: January 4, 2009
Departure Date: January 19, 2009
Next Location: Farmington, UT
Arrival Date: January 19, 2009
Departure Date: TBD
Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/a.
My non-vegan cousin may be the most brilliant vegan cook ever. This Christmas, her and my aunt teamed up to create one of the most righteous family feasts yet. We had terra chips, hummus, jalapeno cranberry sauce, strawberry mandarin spinach salad, cranberry bread, candied carrots, rosemary roasted potatoes, green bean supreme, a vegan roast by Field Roast Grain Meat (available at whole foods) and chocolate cake. Of particular note was the cranberry sauce, which is absolutely brilliant with jalapeño (who would have thought?); the vegan cranberry bread, which was sticky, tart and sweet to perfection; the green bean supreme which I never liked as a kid but love now that it’s been veganized; and the eggless chocolate cake which was decadently moist on the inside and flawlessly crisp around the edges. I have attached the recipes for you foodies out there. They are also available here with pictures.
When it became apparent that I would be in North America for the winter, my parents invited me to join them on their annual ski trip departing the day after Christmas. This year we went to Canada for the first time as a family. We stayed in Canmore, a small town between Calgary and Banff put on the map when it hosted the Nordic events for the 1988 Winter Olympic Games. 1988 is significant because it is the first year of Olympic Games that I ever watched. (Points to anyone who knows what city hosted the 1988 Summer Games.)
We skied three resorts in Banff National Park: Norquay, Sunshine and Lake Louise. Norquay is small and untouristed, a local spot with great attitude but not-so-great-snow. Sunshine and Lake Louise are world class resorts comparable to those in Colorado and Utah with wonderfully rugged (read rocky) terrain and a healthy respect for avalanche danger. On our fourth day, we took a break from downhill to try our skills at cross country skiing at Canmore’s Olympic Nordic Track. On our final day, we packed up and drove two hours north along the Icefields Parkway to stare in awe at the massive glacier formations and ice falls impressively suspended over towering rock formations.
If you live or travel in Alberta, I recommend checking out The Coup in Calgary, a super trendy joint serving up spectacular meals and a live DJ on the weekends. This place is no secret and is obscenely popular. Expect a worthwhile wait. In Canmore, I highly recommend The Chef’s Studio Japan for Sushi. The menu is great for vegans (they even leave the fish out of their miso), the staff is uber friendly and the bathrooms include chalk so that you can guiltlessly tag the walls. If you are anywhere in Canada, I recommend checking out the new Vegetarian Chicken Sandwich at KFC. Yes, Kentucky Fried Chicken sells vegan chicken that is absolutely delicious. The people at the counter may not know that it is vegan so make sure to ask for no mayo. Unfortunately, it is only available in Canada. So, if you live in Canada and don’t mind eating fried food every so often support it so that they’ll start offering it in the US. Related trivia: the first KFC ever is in South Salt Lake, Utah.
There is more to write but I’ll save it for update 36. Thanks to all of you who wrote back with your New Year’s updates!
Love,
Melissa
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